Many fashion enthusiasts consider New York Fashion Week the epicenter of Fashion Month, but this year, its coveted runways were missing some key figures. For instance, Willy Chavarria made his departure from the NYFW calendar to show in Paris this season. With names like Helmut Lang and Ralph Lauren also absent, one can’t help but wonder: why were so many key designers missing from the runway this year?
Being one of the “Big Four” alongside Paris, London and Milan, many designers flock at the opportunity to present their work to prestigious crowds in the city that pushes creativity and culture. For designers, it means opportunities for collaboration and exposure within the industry. It’s their way to claim potential trends or set the standard for the season. However, putting on a runway show is a huge financial commitment for designers. Emerging or not, these costs might just be the reason designers are rethinking their participation. From renting venues to hiring models to overall production, it’s not cheap, and perhaps, it’s money better suited somewhere else. Due to this, some brands have now opted to only showing once a year.
The Rise of Digital Presentations
As we’re fully immersed in a digital world, the fashion industry follows. There was only a certain amount of time before fashion enthusiasts would reevaluate the traditional runway show, especially with the rise of immersive online experiences and digital presentations and campaigns. Designers are experimenting with ways to promote their work, attempting to find the most accessible, unique alternatives for global reach.
What makes these digital formats appealing? For starters, anyone with access to the internet can try out these experiences on their own time and pace. This allows for both wider reach and fewer logistical constraints that a physical show could bring. By opting for participating in an online format, expenses could go more toward digital production rather than set construction or venue rentals. For instance, with Tara Babylon, Herve Leger and N.HOOLYWOOD all shared digital releases this season.
Showing At NYFW Breaks The Bank For Many
For emerging designers, fashion week is simply getting expensive. With the rapid pace of the industry, it may feel like they’re finishing one collection before moving on to the next. Producing an entire collection and show has led several to financial loss. Take for example, Carly Mark, designer of the brand Puppets and Puppets. Mark was burdened by both brand-building expenses and the high cost of living in the city. After learning her brand had only a few months of funds left last February, she decided to pivot Puppets and Puppets to an accessory brand. Following her final NYFW show, she relocated to London for more manageable living and business costs.
Mark isn’t the only one who’s spoken out. In 2023, beloved designer Elena Velez spoke candidly about her financial hardship and the struggles of making it in fashion. Mia Vesper of Vesper Obscura also shared her financial struggles after her 2022 NYFW debut. While her first show was successful, Vesper went through a cycle of reinvesting in her brand. She claimed that “keeping track of money is like holding water in cupped hands.” Despite all the money she made that year, she always found herself need to spend more and more money on something else.
This is a common challenge many designers face. Breaking through in the fashion industry requires not only creativity and vision but also navigating the turbulence of financial struggles. It’s easy to understand why designers continue to participate in NYFW despite the cost. The prestige of the event remains a powerful draw. But the struggle is real. Even the most successful names face financial strain as they navigate the high costs of the industry in one of the most expensive cities in the world. At the same time, legacy names like Coach and Tory Burch will likely always continue to thrive here.
The Future of New York Fashion Week
As we look toward the future, it’s clear that New York Fashion Week has been at a crossroads. While some designers continue to flock to its runways, others are experimenting with digital formats or relocating to other cities. With some opting for digital presentations and others choosing more accessible or cost-effective alternatives, the traditional model of the “New York debut” is being questioned like never before. The question isn’t necessarily whether New York will remain at the forefront of Fashion Month, but how it will adapt to remain relevant in an increasingly digital and globalized fashion landscape.
