Mila Sullivan runway show
Photo Courtesy of Instagram/ @mila_sullivan
September 7, 2024

13 Small Designers At NYFW You Should Know About

Our favorite emerging brands showing in NYC for SS25 - including highly anticipated debuts.

While some of the most coveted seats at NYFW have been at shows like Ralph Lauren and Alaia, we’re always looking forward to new talent on the lineup. As fashion week in NYC begins, here is our list of the ones to watch this season – including calendar debuts Presley Oldham, Sebastien Ami and 5000.

Caroline Zimbalist

With Chappell Roan as a recent supporter, Caroline Zimbalist is known for her use of bioplastics and artistic detail. The designer shares: “The previous show was more of an introduction of my brand and the use of biomaterial as an alternative textile. I am refining and modifying some looks to fuse into evening attire that isn’t overly conspicuous, using techniques for softer, form fitting garments. I paired some molds with RTW as the silhouette or a harder bioplastic outer layer and also included bio-wet drapes on traditional textile, embellished with hand paintings orbiomaterial appliques. A secondary goal of SS25 is more exposure of my sculpted accessories line which sells briskly for the merchants who carry them.”

Sam Finger


Sam Finger will present a collection at NYFW called Good Morning America at Wonderland Gentlemen’s Club, an adult entertainment venue. The NYC-based designer focuses on celebrating individual expression through seductive clothing, from utilitarian basics to deconstructed couture. Balancing toughness with tenderness, we look forward to their SS25 work.

Tanner Fletcher


Founded by Tanner and Fletcher, the genderless brand Tanner Fletcher is known for “fluid luxury.” Based in Brooklyn, they specialize in ready-to-wear, handbags, home items, and jewelry that “push the boundaries between masculinity and femininity.” Their website states: “We founded Tanner Fletcher to create necessary change in the world when it comes to wardrobe. Personally, we have always shopped in a label free way by purchasing whatever we feel suits our personal style without taking into consideration whether it is men’s or women’s. We are setting out not to create a new shopping category altogether but to remove current and past gender labels associated with dressing that tend to put people in an invisible box with rules that don’t work with the freedom of our modern societies.”

FROLOV

Ukrainian couture ready-to-wear brand FROLOV has been worn recently by Beyoncé, Sabrina Carpenter, Dua Lipa, Doja Cat and Megan Thee Stallion. The brands mission statement, “FROLOV is for people who love to express themselves in their own unique way, who love to experiment, who empower their sexuality and treat their looks not just as a piece of clothes, but as a powerful statement”, rings true to their SS25 collection. Their NYFW presentation was ethereal – featuring flowing silhouettes, pastel tones and statement, yet wearable, pieces.

Saint Art

Founded by Caroline Gogolak, Saint Art‘s chic take on streetwear is both sustainable and refreshing. Their website shares the following: “Saint Art is a New York ready-to-wear brand with elevated denim that is comprised of easy, effortless and re-conceptualized styles that address the cadence of our every day. The aesthetic embodies off duty street style and explores contrasting elements of menswear combined with femininity.”

Allina Liu

Also worn recently by Chappell Roan, Allina Liu’s work “seeks to celebrate femininity through a presentation inspired by woman-led cults and the Pagan tradition of Midsommar.” Inspiration comes from Scandinavian bunads and traditional folk costumes. In collaboration with Brooklyn-based lab TômTex, the SS25 collection features biomaterials made from recycled seafood shells and mushrooms. The “leather” is cruelty-free and naturally biodegradable.

Gabe Gordon


Textile artist and designer Gabe Gordon launched their brand in 2019. Since then, it has grown based on hand-loomed and hand-dyed cloths with an emphasis on sustainable materiality. For SS25, the brand will host a runway show called Horseplay with shoes in collaboration with New Balance. We love how they’re innovating in the knitwear category. We’ve even seen Kim Kardashian wear a cardigan from them.

Mila Sullivan


Based in Brooklyn, Mila Sullivan creates hand-produced ready-to-wear pieces in modern silhouettes using deconstructed vintage home goods and thrifted fabrics. Each piece is one of a kind, making her work truly special and impossible to mass-produce.

Colleen Allen

With a background in menswear from The Row, Colleen Allen stood out at last season’s FW24 NYFW with minimalist silhouettes in striking hues. A former student of NYC’s Parsons School of Design and London’s Central Saint Martins, her last collection was inspired by tarot cards and has since been worn by Charli xcx.

Sebastien Ami

Sebastian Ami is a luxury menswear company with a unisex lens with celebrity clientele such as Bad Bunny & Justin Bieber. We anticipate their next collection will be a continuation of their utilitarian yet luxurious work – re-establishing the narrative of workwear.

Presley Oldham

Another breakout star, Presley Oldham is making their NYFW debut with work that moves away from trend-based and throwaway fashion. Their handcrafted pieces are designed thoughtfully and intentionally using local resources.

5000

For their NYFW debut, 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalist 5000‘s SS25 collection pays homage to the Mabuhay Gardens, a former music venue in San Francisco’s North Beach. The brand aims to evoke “a rebellious spirit and raw energy.” The show will take place in New York City’s historic Marble Cemetery.

Taottao

Taottao describes their Spring/Summer 2025 collection as “a whimsical exploration of daydreams that emerge while working at an office desk. This season, we dive deep into the mesmerizing world beneath the waves, drawing heavy inspiration from the textures and silhouettes of sea creatures. The collection features a palette of toned-down colors reminiscent of the mysterious beauty found under the sea.” There will be reimagined lace mixed with innovative patterns – pushing the boundaries of traditional design with a sense of “imaginative escape.”

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