Since Virgil Abloh’s passing in 2021, Ibrahim Kamara has taken over as Art and Image Director at Off-White. Kamara, who previously worked closely with Abloh, used some of Abloh’s unfinished notes to shape his debut show, SS23, in September 2022. Since then, Kamara has faced a difficult task: take the brand forward and cement it as a legacy brand without the vision of its idiosyncratic founder.
The End Of An Era
Kamara has navigated a delicate balance between introducing his own ideas and incorporating past motifs from Abloh’s Pyrex Vision and earlier Off-White staples. He has focused on distinctive hues in each collection, such as cobalt blue and lime green. Reviews from fashion journalists have been mixed, while social media has often lamented the absence of Abloh’s influence. Tragedies at the top of the fashion world are not new, as seen with Christian Dior’s sudden death in 1957 and Gianni Versace’s murder in 1997. From these losses, new legacy houses emerged, evolving beyond their original concepts. Kamara is now at a crossroads where his next steps will be crucial for the brand’s future beyond Abloh’s significant shadow.
Leaving Paris For New York
What prompted Off-White’s move to NYFW? Paris, with its deep connection to the brand’s history and LVMH’s 60% acquisition, has been a significant home. Kamara might be seeking to redefine Off-White by relocating to New York. If online chatter is accurate, a new and strong identity is essential to avoid the brand becoming stagnant after losing a major figure in fashion.
In a July interview with Vogue, Kamara described the move to New York as a long-planned change. He spoke of a sense of equality and the melting pot of cultures associated with New York City, despite current U.S. political tensions. This concept, though somewhat cliché, could be refreshed by Kamara’s unique approach, as seen with his collection “Black By Popular Demand,” which celebrated Black, African and African-American cultures. This perspective could offer an intriguing alternative to the traditionally Euro-centric view of the United States.
Kamara also mentioned that moving the brand to New York is about connecting with its community. The skaters, DJs, artists, rappers and tastemakers who make Off-White relevant are based in Manhattan and its surrounding neighborhoods.
Off-White’s NYFW Debut
At Brooklyn Bridge Park’s Pier 2, Off-White made its NYFW debut with “DUTY-FREE.” The show attracted a star-studded audience, including Issa Rae, Victoria Monet, Law Roach, Lena Waithe, and Zayn Malik.
Though the show was a Parisian import, Kamara hoped it would not carry the usual baggage. Off-White’s website described the collection as a blend of “African roots” and “American dreams,” perfectly symbolized by a basketball court.
Off-White Spring/Summer 2025
The SS25 collection begins with deconstructed tracksuits and features silhouettes with tiny waists and low-rise bottoms. The tailoring evokes corsetry, a trend that has endured in modern fashion. Many looks have an athleisure vibe, while others hint at rockstar aspirations.
With numerous zippers and removable elements like pockets and jacket halves, the collection emphasizes versatility. Vintage-inspired prints and distressed denim further highlight this theme. The collection balances 70s elements, such as plunge necklines and brown plaids, with 2000s trends, like low waists and large belts. It feels like a cool kid incorporating both trendy pieces and family hand-me-downs.
Red Hues
Kamara selected red as the principal hue for the collection, maintaining its trendiness. Stars and rhinestone embellishments are featured prominently, especially on a wide belt reminiscent of the viral Diesel belt. Some pieces reflect the brand’s fascination with the human form through lines and shapes mimicking body contours. A denim set with “DUTY FREE” stamped on the chest lacks the usual quotation marks, feeling less self-aware than in previous iterations.
Athleisure
This collection is at its best when it evokes the basketball court it’s on: torn apart tracksuits, hooded mesh tops, baggy cargos and sweats. Or when it draws the past into it, in particular with 70s necklines on dresses and the standout brown plaid slacks with a fascinating crocodile-esque translucent texture on the fabric. It’s at its worst when it brings in some of the more run-of-the-mill fashion moments: the feathered skirts, catsuits, work jackets and leather pants. They could be interpreted as nods to what kinds of American dreams can be achieved, but they feel visually discordant at times.
Final Looks
The collection concludes with pink camo at the last second, notably in a two-piece set. Although this felt like an afterthought, it hinted at an unfinished direction that could be explored in upcoming collections.
Off-White SS25 aligns with its evolving vision, blending influences against the backdrop of NYC. As Kamara navigates this new phase, the brand’s future will depend on how it balances its past with fresh, innovative approaches.
